Open Box Underwater Lighting — Bring the Colour Back

Water strips colour with depth, and red disappears first. By 10 metres, a red subject photographs brown; by 20, it's grey. No amount of editing genuinely recovers what was never recorded. Artificial light is the only real solution, which is why lighting matters more to underwater image quality than the camera does.

This collection covers photo and video lights, strobes, focus lights, and mounting hardware including trays and arms. Every item is inspected and graded before listing; see Product Conditions for full definitions.

Video Lights or Strobes?

• Video lights stay on continuously. Essential for video, and simpler for stills because you see exactly what you're lighting before you shoot. Lower peak output than a strobe.
• Strobes fire a brief, powerful burst synchronised to the shutter. Far more light for stills, which freezes motion and allows smaller apertures, but you can't preview the result. Not usable for video.

Most divers shooting stills and video on the same dive run video lights for the flexibility. Dedicated stills photographers generally prefer strobes.

Beam Angle and Backscatter

A wide beam of roughly 100–120° covers the frame evenly and suits photography and video. Narrow beams concentrate light for distance and signalling but produce a hot spot in the middle of an image.

Backscatter — the snow effect from particles lit up between the lens and subject — is the most common problem in underwater images and it's a positioning issue, not an equipment fault. Move lights away from the lens axis on arms, angle them inward so the beam edges cross at the subject, and get physically closer to reduce the water between you and it.

What to Check Before Ordering

• Battery health. Lights are battery-intensive and cells degrade with age. Ask about condition if the listing doesn't state it.
• Charger included. Proprietary chargers are commonly separated from returned items and can be costly to replace.
• O-rings. Inspect and consider replacing before first use, as with any sealed underwater item.
• Mounting standard. Ball mounts, YS mounts, and cold shoe systems aren't interchangeable without adapters. Confirm what matches your existing tray and arms.
• Burn time at full output. The headline number is often the lowest setting. Plan against the output you'll actually use.

Why Buy Open Box Lighting from DiveCatalog.com?

• Inspected and graded — condition stated clearly on every listing
• Expert advice — our team can confirm mounting compatibility with your existing rig
• Fast shipping — in-stock items ship within one business day
• 30-day returns — with RMA approval; see our Returns & Exchanges page
• Rewards program — earn points on every purchase

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need two lights or is one enough?

One light works and is a reasonable starting point, but it casts directional shadows across the subject. Two lights positioned either side of the housing give more even illumination and considerably more control over backscatter. Many divers start with one and add a second later.

How do I reduce backscatter?

Move the lights away from the lens on arms and angle them so the beam edges cross at your subject rather than pointing straight ahead. Then get closer — less water between lens and subject means fewer particles to light up. It's positioning, not equipment.

Are used lights reliable?

Generally yes, provided the seals are sound and the battery holds charge. Inspect and replace O-rings before first use, and test the light in shallow water before taking it deep.

Do open box lights come with a warranty?

No. Open box and used products are not eligible for manufacturer warranty coverage.

Browse the full collection above, or see Open Box Underwater Cameras and all Open Box & Used gear.