Bare 8/7 Velocity Ultra 2.0 Semi-Dry Wetsuit Men's

It is built for serious cold-water diving: a front-entry cross-chest dry zipper, Skin-2-Seal wrist and ankle seals, a 2mm internal pullover bib, and double-glued Secure-Lock seams that BARE says eliminate water entry — plus an attached OMNIRED-lined hood, a 10mm spine and kidney pad, PROTEKT knee pads, and a thigh cargo pocket. It comes in 15 sizes from XS to 4XL including Short and Tall cuts.

OMNIRED weaves 13 thermo-reactive minerals into the suit's fabric that convert your outbound body heat into infrared energy and reflect it back to you — BARE's claimed benefits are added warmth, better circulation, and steadier temperature regulation. The current generation adds graphene to the mix, which BARE's lab testing showed improved heat reflection by an average of about 5°C over the original OMNIRED fabric.

BARE's official guidance: above 75°F (24°C), a 3–5mm; from 68–75°F (20–24°C), a 5–7mm; below 68°F (20°C), a 7mm or more; and below 50°F (10°C), BARE recommends moving to a drysuit. Everyone's cold tolerance differs — if you tend to run cold or do long repetitive dives, size the thickness up a step.

BARE covers all wetsuits with a 2-year warranty on workmanship and materials for defects, with repair or replacement at BARE's option. Normal wear, misuse, and unauthorized repairs are excluded. (The longer 7-year seam coverage you may have read about applies to BARE drysuits, not wetsuits.)

A wetsuit should feel snug everywhere, with no loose pockets at the lower back, armpits, or behind the knees where water can collect and flush. It will feel tighter than normal clothing on land, which is expected, because the suit works by holding a thin layer of water that your body warms. If you cannot take a full breath or the neck chokes you it is too small, and if you can pinch loose folds of neoprene it is too big.

Most divers wear a swimsuit, a rash guard, or a thin dive-specific base layer under a wetsuit. A slick base layer makes a tight suit much easier to pull on and cuts down chafing at the neck, shoulders, and underarms. Avoid thick cotton clothing, which soaks up water, bunches, and makes you colder rather than warmer.

Work upward in small sections, pulling a little neoprene at a time rather than yanking on one spot, and get the suit fully seated at the ankles and knees before working on the hips and shoulders. A plastic bag over each foot and hand, or wetting the suit first, helps it slide into place. Grip with flat palms rather than fingertips, since fingernails are the most common cause of torn neoprene.

As a general rule, thicker neoprene insulates more, so a higher millimeter rating is warmer in the same conditions. Warmth also depends heavily on fit, suit style, seam construction, whether you add a hood, boots, and gloves, how long the dive is, and your own cold tolerance, so two divers in identical suits can feel very differently. Use thickness as a starting point and refine it against your local conditions and personal experience.

Rinse it inside and out in fresh water after every dive day, and use a wetsuit-specific wash occasionally to control odor. Dry it inside-out first and then flip it, always out of direct sunlight, because UV and heat break down neoprene faster than anything else. Store it hanging on a wide-shouldered hanger or laid flat rather than folded, so you do not set permanent creases.

Lifespan depends far more on use and care than on age, so a suit dived hard in sun and chlorine may soften within a couple of seasons while a well-rinsed occasional-use suit can last many years. Signs a suit is finished include compressed neoprene that no longer feels buoyant or warm, splitting seams, and looseness in areas that used to be snug. Repairing small cuts and seam separations early adds meaningfully to a suit's life.

A full suit covers arms and legs, a shorty stops at the upper arms and thighs, and separates such as tops, bottoms, and hooded vests layer to add warmth where you want it. Layering a vest or top under a full suit adds core warmth and can extend the range of a suit you already own. Choose based on how much coverage you want, both for warmth and for protection against stings and abrasion.

The Velocity Ultra 2.0 is a semi-dry built for genuinely cold water: an 8/7mm suit with a front-entry cross-chest dry zipper, Skin-2-Seal wrist and ankle seals, a 2mm internal pullover bib, double-glued Secure-Lock seams, an attached OMNIRED-lined hood, a 10mm spine and kidney pad and a thigh cargo pocket. The Reactive is the conventional back-zip wetsuit — easier to get into, easier to travel with, and offered in the thickness that matches your water. If your dives are cold and long, the Velocity Ultra is the warmer tool; for everything else the Reactive is the more practical suit.

This listing carries 15 men's sizes: S, M, MT, ML, MLS, MLT, L, LS, LT, XL, XLS, XLT, 2XL, 2XLS and 3XL. Short and Tall options in Medium Large, Large and X-Large, plus Medium Tall and 2X-Large Short, let you match torso and limb length. Bare's anatomically correct pattern is designed for a three-dimensional fit, and a snug fit is essential for semi-dry performance.

Yes. The hood is attached to the suit and lined with Omnired for additional warmth. A 2mm neoprene internal pullover bib layers under the hood and chest area for extra warmth and comfort. The suit also uses Skin-2-Seal sealing at the wrists and ankles to minimize water entry.

The Velocity Ultra 2.0 uses a front-entry cross-chest heavy-duty plastic dry zipper backed by an internal skin-to-skin sealing flap. You pull the suit on from the front and close the cross-chest dry zipper. Combined with the double-glued Secure-Lock seams, Bare states this construction eliminates water entry through the seams.

Yes. The suit includes a thigh cargo pocket with a Velcro flap and D-ring for small items such as a backup light, spool or slate. The 10mm spine and kidney pad also adds comfort where a cylinder sits against your back, which helps on longer dives in heavy cold-water configurations.