Ikelite 6280.28 Underwater Housing for Nikon L25 Camera

Before every dive, open the housing somewhere clean and dry, inspect and wipe the main o-ring and its groove, and close it with nothing trapped in the seal, because a single hair or grain of sand is enough to flood it. Confirm every latch is fully closed and that any vacuum or leak alarm reads correctly. Where you can, soak the sealed housing in a rinse tank or hang at the surface before descending, so a leak shows up before depth.

Remove the main o-ring regularly with a plastic tool rather than anything metal, which can nick the groove, and clean both the o-ring and the groove with a lint-free cloth. Apply a thin film of the silicone grease the manufacturer specifies, since grease helps the o-ring seat and slide rather than sealing by itself, and a thick coat only collects grit. Replace o-rings on the schedule in the manual, or sooner if they look flattened, cut, or dry.

A moisture alarm is a sensor inside the housing that beeps or flashes when it detects water, giving you a chance to abort the dive before the camera is ruined. Desiccant packs absorb humidity in the air sealed inside the housing, which prevents the port fogging as you descend into cooler water. Neither replaces a proper seal check, since they provide early warning and fog control rather than leak prevention.

Only as deep as its rated depth, which the manufacturer sets and publishes in the specifications, and it should never be exceeded even briefly. Depth ratings assume a housing in good condition with intact seals, so worn o-rings or a damaged port reduce the real margin. If your diving might take you deeper, choose a housing rated comfortably beyond your planned maximum depth.

Only if the housing is specifically rated for the depth you plan to dive, because many phone cases are splash- or snorkel-rated rather than scuba-rated. Touchscreens generally do not respond underwater, so a diving phone housing needs mechanical buttons or another control method. A phone's own water-resistance rating is not a substitute for a housing, and any housing still needs seal checks and o-ring care.

Soak the closed, sealed housing in fresh water and work every button and dial while it is submerged so salt does not dry inside the control shafts. Let it dry completely, especially around latches and seams, before you open it, since opening a wet housing drips water straight onto the camera. Avoid opening a housing on a wet, moving boat deck whenever you have the option to wait.

Get the housing out of the water and open it somewhere dry, then immediately remove the camera's battery and memory card, because leaving a battery in a wet camera does more damage than the water itself. Do not power the camera on to check whether it still works. Dry everything gently away from direct heat, get salt-water-exposed equipment to a repair technician promptly, and inspect the housing to find which seal failed before you dive it again.

The Ikelite 6280.28 housing is built specifically for the Nikon COOLPIX L25 camera. It uses drop-in loading so the L25 seats into the clear polycarbonate shell, which is then closed with a side latch that compresses an o-ring for a watertight seal.

Yes. The housing's ports are 3 inches in diameter with a 67mm front thread, which accepts external wide angle wet lenses such as the WD-3 Wide Angle Dome, the W-30 Wide Angle Lens, and the INON UWL-H100, as well as 67mm threaded macro lenses from brands like INON and Epoque.

The housing's 3-inch diameter ports accept 3-inch diameter color filters that press directly onto the port. Most wide angle lenses require a larger 3.6-inch diameter color filter instead, so check your specific lens before ordering a filter.

Yes, a flash diffuser is included with the housing. It improves lighting quality when using the Nikon COOLPIX L25's built-in flash, which is effective 1 to 3 feet (0.3 to 0.9 m) from the subject in clear conditions.