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Product Information
Powerful & Feature Packed
The Sea Dragon 5000F photo-video light delivers 5000F lumens in an even 120° wide beam. The light offers an unmatched 96 CRI (color rendering index) with a proprietary COB LED array that replicates natural sunlight (A CRI of 100 would be just like natural sunlight). Most other LED lights offer a much lower CRI, and missing critical color components necessary to produce natural and colorful still images and videos. The Sea Dragon 5000F also delivers a TLCI (Television Lighting Consistency Index) value of over 97. With 100 being the highest possible TLCI value, this index value is especially important to underwater video photographers.
More Powerful, But Easier to Handle
Size and weight of the new Sea Dragon 5000F have been minimized; the 5000 is the over 20% lighter, and smaller than its 4500 lumen predecessor. Part of the Sea Dragon’s impressive performance is its powerful 50W Li-ion rechargeable battery pack, that runs the light for 50 minutes at full power. The light also includes a battery charger, 3 international plug adapters and a protective travel case.
SeaLife’s Auto Modes
The Sea Dragon 5000F also offers impressive still image results and can be used as a primary source of light or in combination with a strobe. The 5000F features Auto Flash Detect mode, which cancels the light for one second when a strobe is fired. The Sea Dragon 5000F brightness can be adjusted manually or automatically with its built-in photocell light sensor. The Auto Bright mode automatically adjusts from 500 to 5000F lumens based on proximity to the subject, helping to preserve your eye’s natural night vision and extends battery life. The light can also be manually adjusted to 100%, 75%, 50% or 25% brightness, plus the 180 lumen red mode.
Red LED “Stealth Mode”
Two integrated 220-lumen red LED’s cast an 88° beam. At night or in caves or shadows, the red LED’s preserve your eyes natural low light function; allowing you to see gauges and your surroundings, at the same time the red LED’s do not frighten creatures like skittish reef fish that disappear from bright underwater LED lights. The red LED’s are powerful enough to assist the camera’s auto focus and will turn off for 1 second when a Strobe/Flash is fired.
Easily Expandable
The light head includes standard YS adapter, Flex-Connect™ YS Adapter and 1” ball joint adapter, for easy expansion with any YS, Flex-Connect or 1” ball joint system of arms, grips, trays and mounts.
Powerful 5000 lumen LED light. Latest COB LED array technology.
| Body material: | Anodized machined aluminum |
| Light source/ Bulb type: | 1 x COB LED array and 2x red LED’s |
| Brightness: | 5000 lumens (maintains lumens throughout run time at full power) |
| Brightness modes: | 100% ? 75% ? 50% ? 25% ? Auto (10% to 100%) ? Red ? [repeat] |
| Button Control: | Long push (1 sec) to power light on/off; Short push cycles through brightness modes |
| Light modes: | Constant light or hidden emergency signal light (activated by long push of power button) |
| Color temperature: | 5600K |
| CRI*: | 96 Color Rendering Index |
| TLCI**: | 97 Television Lighting Consistency Index |
| Beam angle: | 120° degrees on land (90° underwater) |
| Battery: | Li-ion 14.8V, 3400 mAh, 50Wh (included) |
| Battery charge time: | 2 hours 15 minutes |
| Run time: | 3.3 hours at 1250 lumens and constant current. 50 minutes @ full power 5000 lumens. |
| 10 Minute reserve power: | Light dims to 200 lumens for 10 minutes when battery is near empty. |
| Battery status indicator: | Green = 100-51% battery charge; Yellow = 50-21%; Red = 20-5%; Red blinking = <5% |
| Depth: | Tested to 330 ft (100m) |
| Operating temperature: | 0°F to 113°F (0°C to 45°C) |
| Storage temperature: | 14°F to 140°F (-10°C to 60°C) |
| Dimensions: | 5.2” length x 2.3” diameter (13.2cm x 5.8cm) Head only |
| Weight: | 12.7 ounces (361 grams) Head Only w/o battery; 21oz (595 grams) Head w/ battery |
| Bulb life: | 35,000 hours |
| O-ring: | Dual silicone O-rings (lube included) |
| Buoyancy: | Negative; -271 grams underwater |
| * CRI is a measure of a light source’s ability to show object colors “realistically” or “naturally” compared to daylight, which has a CRI of 100 and represents the maximum possible value. | |
| ** TLCI is a standard used in the television broadcast industry to measure the color quality of studio lights. Lights with TLCI greater than 90 are considered to be optimal for television cameras requiring no post-production color correction. 100 is the highest possible TLCI value. |
⚠️ WARNING: This product contains chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, or other reproductive harm. For more information, visit www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Frequently Asked Questions
What do lumens mean on a dive light?
Lumens measure the total light output, but they say nothing about how that light is shaped, so a tight narrow beam can look far brighter at distance than a higher-lumen wide beam. Beam angle, color temperature, and water clarity affect what you actually see as much as the lumen figure does. Use lumens to compare lights of a similar beam type rather than as a single score of quality.
What is the difference between a primary and a backup dive light?
A primary light is your main light, usually brighter, larger, and with a longer burn time, while a backup is a small, simple light carried in case the primary fails. Any dive where you need a light to exit safely, such as a night dive, calls for carrying at least one backup. Backups are chosen for reliability and simplicity rather than for maximum output.
How long will a dive light run on one charge?
Burn time and brightness trade directly against each other, so the same battery run at a lower power setting lasts substantially longer. Manufacturers usually quote burn time at each power level, and many lights automatically step down output as the battery drains or the head heats up. Treat quoted figures as fresh-battery, ideal-condition numbers and plan for more burn time than your dive actually needs.
How do I care for the o-rings on a dive light?
The o-rings sealing the battery compartment are what keep the light from flooding, so inspect them for grit, hair, and nicks every time you open it, and wipe the sealing surfaces clean. Lubricate lightly with the grease type the manufacturer specifies, using a thin film rather than a heavy coat, because excess grease attracts sand. Replace o-rings when they look flattened, cracked, or dry, and do not over-tighten the cap in the hope of sealing a bad o-ring.
Can I fly with dive light batteries?
Lithium batteries are subject to airline and regulatory limits that vary by cell chemistry, watt-hour rating, and whether the cells are installed or loose. As a general rule lithium cells travel in carry-on baggage rather than checked baggage, with terminals protected against short circuit, but you must confirm your airline's current policy and any local rules before you fly. Carrying the manufacturer's battery specification sheet helps if you are questioned at screening.
How should I store and maintain a dive light between trips?
Rinse it in fresh water after each dive day and work the switch while it is submerged so salt does not crystallize inside it, then dry it before opening. For storage, remove or charge the batteries as the manual directs, and leave the cap loose so the o-ring does not take a permanent set. Never store a light with corroded or leaking cells inside it.
Should I turn a dive light on before I get in the water?
Test it briefly as part of your pre-dive check, but do not leave a powerful light running in air, because many are designed to shed heat into the water and can overheat on the surface. Check the manual, as some lights have thermal protection that dims or shuts them down when they are dry. Testing before you gear up is far better than discovering a dead light at depth.
