Open Box SeaLife SportDiver ULTRA Pro 2500 Set

It is a complete underwater photo system: the SportDiver Ultra smartphone housing, a Sea Dragon 2500 lumen light head, a Flex-Connect tray and grip, a red color-correction filter, a vacuum pump for the pre-dive seal test, spare O-rings and lubricant, a wrist strap, a Moisture Muncher anti-fog capsule, batteries, and carry cases. Everything you need to shoot photos and video on your next dive comes in the box.

It fits iPhone models from the iPhone 10 through iPhone 17 Pro Max and most Android phones including larger Samsung Galaxy S Ultra and Google Pixel models, using SeaLife's free SportDiver app. Unlike touchscreen housings, it uses physical, glove-friendly controls — a large shutter lever plus rear buttons for mode, zoom, focus, and settings — so it works reliably even in cold water with gloves. The app adds control over exposure, white balance, manual focus, and RAW capture.

The housing is depth-rated and individually tested to 130 feet (40 meters), and it has Dual Leak Alarms — an internal moisture alarm and a vacuum-pressure alarm. Before every dive you pump out the air with the included vacuum pump and confirm the seal holds, so you know the housing is sealed before your phone ever goes underwater. It is one of the most reassuring safety systems in a phone housing.

The Sea Dragon 2500 puts out a maintained 2,500 lumens across a wide 120-degree beam (about 90 degrees underwater), which is ideal for lighting up wide-angle scenes and restoring color that water absorbs. It has three power modes — 100%, 50%, and 25% — with runtimes of roughly 60, 120, and 240 minutes respectively, so you can trade brightness for burn time depending on the dive.

Before every dive, open the housing somewhere clean and dry, inspect and wipe the main o-ring and its groove, and close it with nothing trapped in the seal, because a single hair or grain of sand is enough to flood it. Confirm every latch is fully closed and that any vacuum or leak alarm reads correctly. Where you can, soak the sealed housing in a rinse tank or hang at the surface before descending, so a leak shows up before depth.

Remove the main o-ring regularly with a plastic tool rather than anything metal, which can nick the groove, and clean both the o-ring and the groove with a lint-free cloth. Apply a thin film of the silicone grease the manufacturer specifies, since grease helps the o-ring seat and slide rather than sealing by itself, and a thick coat only collects grit. Replace o-rings on the schedule in the manual, or sooner if they look flattened, cut, or dry.

A moisture alarm is a sensor inside the housing that beeps or flashes when it detects water, giving you a chance to abort the dive before the camera is ruined. Desiccant packs absorb humidity in the air sealed inside the housing, which prevents the port fogging as you descend into cooler water. Neither replaces a proper seal check, since they provide early warning and fog control rather than leak prevention.

Only as deep as its rated depth, which the manufacturer sets and publishes in the specifications, and it should never be exceeded even briefly. Depth ratings assume a housing in good condition with intact seals, so worn o-rings or a damaged port reduce the real margin. If your diving might take you deeper, choose a housing rated comfortably beyond your planned maximum depth.

Only if the housing is specifically rated for the depth you plan to dive, because many phone cases are splash- or snorkel-rated rather than scuba-rated. Touchscreens generally do not respond underwater, so a diving phone housing needs mechanical buttons or another control method. A phone's own water-resistance rating is not a substitute for a housing, and any housing still needs seal checks and o-ring care.

Soak the closed, sealed housing in fresh water and work every button and dial while it is submerged so salt does not dry inside the control shafts. Let it dry completely, especially around latches and seams, before you open it, since opening a wet housing drips water straight onto the camera. Avoid opening a housing on a wet, moving boat deck whenever you have the option to wait.

Get the housing out of the water and open it somewhere dry, then immediately remove the camera's battery and memory card, because leaving a battery in a wet camera does more damage than the water itself. Do not power the camera on to check whether it still works. Dry everything gently away from direct heat, get salt-water-exposed equipment to a repair technician promptly, and inspect the housing to find which seal failed before you dive it again.